The OUTSIDER’s guide to Manila…or at least how we see it

We have now been here in the Manila for a while and we thought it would be fun to share some hints and tips that we have learned about traveling in the Philippines. Some of these lessons were learned the hard way, so hopefully this post will save you from some of the same experiences.

TRAVEL

·         General

o   Always have toilet paper, wipes, and hand sanitizer with you. Bathrooms are not usually clean. Sometimes they are so if you see a clean bathroom, use it! You never know when you will see the next one. Having soap, toilet paper and paper towels are a luxury not the norm.

o   There are plenty of things to see within a day trip from Manila. It is always nice to get out of the city and see the beautiful countryside of the Philippines. (See our link: Day Trips)

o   The best place to get your car cleaned is in the Mall parking lot while you shop. Almost all major malls have a group that will do that for you.

o   If you are flying out of Manila. Make sure you know which terminal you are going to. They are in different parts of the airport and you CANNOT walk between them. Be specific with the driver dropping you off because otherwise you will end up at the wrong place and have to take another taxi (Very FRUSTRATING experience)

·         Getting around Manila:

o   There are several ways to get around Manila itself. Jeepneys, tricycles, buses, the train, or taxis. Many of these are overcrowded and generally not recommended for foreigners that are not familiar with the area and people. If you do take them, be alert; know where your valuables are.

o   When crossing the street, just hold your hand up and start walking. There are no crosswalks and people will normally stop for you. Very scary experience at first, but it works

o   Taking a taxi is the easiest, especially if you cannot speak the language. You can see the price. Make sure they start the meter when you get in. If they don’t, then get out. There are plenty more taxi’s behind you. Often they will try things like stopping at a petrol station to fuel up on your way. The first time this happened we were confused. Then we realized the time runs while there. You can either get out then, or just figure the ten pesos and time is not worth the hassle of finding another taxi.

o   It helps to have a general idea where you are going maps are a good thing to have handy, even if it is a just a printed copy of a MapQuest. That way you can object if they start taking the “short cut” that usually costs more in the end. Keep in mind that times and street names are relative so stop and ask if you think you are lost.

o   Have your address written down in English and Tagalog. Include major landmarks the driver will know. The first time we went to the mall in a taxi was great, then when we wanted to return home, I had no idea how to get there! YIKES! They don’t do addresses like we do in the States, they use landmarks. For example: “We live between the __________ and ______. Next to ______________”

o   Knowing some simple Tagalog phrases can help:

•   Pupunta ako sa _____________ =“I am going to __________________”

•   Salamat po_________________= “Thank you____________________”

·         Driving yourself

o   Several foreign families have their own driver. It is easier and hassle free.

o   We chose not to have a driver and generally have no problems. That being said, there is an art to driving here, especially in Manila—there are people everywhere! Most days it is complete chaos!

o   Don’t worry about figuring out the rules—there are none. Just worry about the cars around you and work with them, it is much like a jig saw puzzle. Go with the flow.

o   ALWAYS expect the car to cut in front of you. Busses and motorcycles are the worst. They do not look, slow down, or use signals before they come over so it is best to just expect it. They will also drive against traffic and turn right from the fourth lane over.

o   Use your horn. It can be a handy tool to let people know you are there, you want to turn, that you are coming, etc.

o   Be alert. Either on foot or vehicle, they will pull out into the road and THEN LOOK. Not the other way around. Make sure you always know what is around you in case you have to dodge hitting someone.

o   Policeman will pull you over and want you to bribe them not to give you a ticket. Do not give your license to them because they will not give it back until you do pay them. So be careful there.

o   Street beggars will come knock on your windows and doors for money or to sell something. Make sure your doors are locked and windows up. It is hard to see, completely sad how they exploit children and elderly, but realize most of the money they collect does not go to those they exploit. There are plenty of charities around the country that are doing wholesome help for the poor, your money is better used if donated to them.

FOOD

• ·         Take bottled water with you or order bottled water when you drink. If it is a higher end restaurant the water is usually ok, but if you are unsure it is better to be safe

• ·         Street food is usually not a good idea. Unless of course you have an iron stomach.

• ·         Most Filipino dishes are fried, have mayonnaise, some kind of fish sauce, or lots of sugar. If you do not like any of those things make sure to ask before you order it. We were shocked the first time we had pasta here because there was so much sugar in it. Fresh fruit smoothies and shakes will also have straight sugar water added.

• ·         When eating a Halo-Halo (a popular desert here) make sure to mix it. The first time we tried it, we did not like it because we ate it layer by layer. To get the full effect you have to mix it all together.

·         Eating out

o   Manila is a diverse city so you can usually find a good restaurant or two. Here are some of our favorites

§  Indian Food: Kashmir on Padre Faura street, Ermita. The outside does not look like much but inside it is a fun ethnically decorated place with delicious dishes!

§  Thai Food: Peoples Palace has somewhat westernized Thai food. Located in Greenbelt Malls, Makati. We love this place! Make sure to try the sticky mango coconut rice.

§  Pizza: Yellow Cab Pizza and Shakeys Pizza seem to have the best “American styled pizza. There are located all over the city
§   Cheesesteak shop: Makati, Authentic Philly cheesesteaks with imported bread and meat.

§  Italian food: Italianis  in most major malls. The pasta does not have sugar in it and tastes most like we would expect.

§  Greek food: There is good restaurant on the second level of Robinsons Mall Ermita. Really great for fresh vegetable salads.

§  Lunch/breakfast: Apt 1B Great burgers, smoothies, salads and sandwiches Salcedo Village, Makati

§  Japanese food: There are a few really great Japanese restaurants in the Ermita area

§  Chelseas: Serendra, Fort Bonafacio. Upscale home-style food. Great burgers, sandwiches and salads. Make sure to try their Cantaloupe coconut smoothy

§  Korean BBQ: ask around, some of the best are ‘hole-in-the-wall places’

§  They also have TGI Fridays, Chilis, Tony Romas, Wendys, McDonalds, KFC and other American brands at all major malls.

SHOPPING

You can find just about anything you need in Manila. (Or a substitute version of it) You just have to be willing to go look. The game becomes convenience over necessity. (Click on the Shopping link to see all of our stories about shopping). 

·         General

o   There are sometimes MORE employees in a store than shoppers. They want to be helpful, especially if you look foreign so they will all come talk to you or wave you over to their stores. It can be exhausting and a bit claustrophobic at times.

o   Don’t pick up, point or ask a price unless you are prepared to either bargain or fight off the vendor who will clamor to sell it to you.

o   Be prepared to be patted down when you enter any mall by the guard.

·                      Malls

o   Mall of Asia

§  It is big and has quite a bit to see. The theaters are clean (although you can read one of our experiences with a  mouse on a previous post)

§  Several stores to choose from

§  An ice skating rink

§  They do fireworks on the bay every Friday and Saturday 7pm unless it rains

§  A few restaurants we like. Most are local favorites

§  Always big crowds

o   Robinsons Mall Ermita

§  Big and clean, more stores that are not high end. Less crowds and we have found it has a better variety of restaurants than Mall of Asia.

o   Makati Malls

§  Greenbelt and Glorietta malls are right next to each other

§  Both malls are high end and mid-level shopping and always clean and beautiful

§  Rustans and Landmark mall are across the street and are both basically a large department stores like Macys or Nordstrom.

§  Makati malls are most similar to what we see in the States

§  Plenty of great restaurants, bars and movie theaters to choose from in this area

§  The drawback is traffic getting to and from

o   Fort Bonifacio

§  Market-Market, High Street, and Serendra, much like in Makati, are all strung together.

§  Stores are mostly catering to the wealthy. Plenty of sit down restaurants. A great place to get away from the chaos of Manila and feel like you are in the States for a few minutes

oRestort World, across the road from the Airport. A big spacious mall/casino. Very clean, not many people. There are several restaurants to choose from. The theater is more expensive but the cleanest of all the other malls. (And the bathrooms have soap, toilet paper AND paper towels)
o  Greenhills

§  Completely chaotic. It is much like an indoor flee market attached to a mall; A great place to buy bags, pearls, handicrafts, clothes, etc. Just be prepared though it is an intense experience. Bargain. They will raise the price because they think you are rich. If they will not lower the price, leave. They will lower then or you will find another booth that will.

§  Again know a few Tagalog phrases are good here

·         Magkano? = how much is this?

·         Sobrang Mahal = too expensive

·         Tingnan lang = just looking 

·         Outdoor shopping (again, see blog links to the side for our experiences at these places)

o   Taft street and Baclaran

§  For a fun walk and to see all the street vendors that sell everything from shoes to clothes to household items, take a walk around Baclaran. Be aware of your valuables (don’t take any more than necessary). Things are cheap, feel free to bargain, they will raise the price, up to 100% over what they charge a local.

o   Cartimar Market

§  Located in the Pasay/Ermita area, Cartimar sells shoes, clothes, animals (of all kinds), and plants. Another place to just go explore

o   There are two farmer’s markets in Makati on the weekends. One on Saturday morning

in Salcedo Village, and one on Sunday morning. They are really similar to markets in the States.

o   Divisoria

§  North of Chinatown in Manila. Divisoria is a collection of malls and outdoor shopping. Completely crazy, but cheap. You can find anything here that you need, from furniture and cloth to flowers, jewelry and food. Truly a great experience, even if you only go once.

§  Take a taxi in and out just to make sure your car is safe

§  Again, be prepared to bargain. They will raise the price. Or buy things that have prices listed

§  BE Aware of your surroundings. Most people are friendly are wonderful, but make sure you are aware of your surroundings.

§  Most people take a local with them; we went by ourselves and were fine. 

·         Grocery Shopping

o   S&R

§  A membership club, much like Costco or Sam’s in the States. You can get American soap, detergent, candy, milk, foods, Melona bars, Breyers ice cream, salsa, ranch,  oreos, real orange juice (that is not LOADED with sugar), and we have found they have the best meat selection. It is expensive but some things are worth it.

o   Hypermarket

§  A big supermarket brand name here. Kind of like a small Wal-mart or Target. This is where we do most of our shopping. They have a large international section and we can find either what we need or a close substitute. Their fruits vegetables are usually good.

o   Rustan’s

§  A higher end grocery store. More expensive, but they have specialty things other stores do not have. Like Mochi ice cream, rice milk, refried beans etc.

o   Santi’s deli

§  A chain of deli’s that sell fresh deli meats. Something that is hard to find anywhere else

o   Robinson’s Supermarket

§  Located in the Mall in Ermita. A less hectic and cleaner version of Hypermarket but not as expensive as Rustan’s. Vegetable and fruit section quite a bit larger here.

Dog Fur Rugs and Frog Skin Purses

I was telling Lady Hiva today that we may have some culture shock going back to the United States after living here in the Philippines for two years. As I was driving home I thought how the crazy traffic, the honking, the food, the buildings, and the lifestyle, none of it surprises me anymore. I swerve across three lanes of traffic to my exit, bully the little car next to me for space just because I am bigger, drive in a lane that is not really a lane, turn left when it says not to, (I even went up a one way street the other day and people just waved and I kept driving!), and I honk like the best of them. AND the great part is: NOBODY CARES because they do it too! Not much is shocking at this point. We are even getting used to all the salespeople pestering us as we try to walk. Before we would stop a conversation due to their persistence, but we now can just carry on walking and talking.

That being said however, there are moments I still get surprised.

We were at one of those malls with several booths all selling similar things and all of them want your business of course, so the yelling for our attention begins when we enter the door. You can buy anything at these places. I mean it, anything. Decorations for the house, furniture, fabric, toys, electronics, clothes—both real and “real” designers, bootleg DVDs, shoes, food, and plenty of bags, purses and pearls. It is amazing to see all that is for sale for being such an economically struggling country.

We bought a few things and then were walking around while we waited for some friends. We found some really great food places. This one little bakery makes Hopia out of Ube. Ube is a purple root similar to Polynesian yams.  For the Hopia, they cover some ground Ube with dough and then grill both sides. It becomes bite sized yummy-ness!

As we were exploring we saw a few things that surprised me. One of the rug shops was highlighting their newest addition to the exotic collection and there on the top of all the other rugs was BEETHOVEN! He had died and been skinned and was ready for your floor. I am not sure why this was so bothersome to me. I have tried dog meat before and there are several people with cow hide or sheep hide rugs in their houses, but the dog rug was appalling. It still had its black nose and floppy ears! I could not help but think who would want their dog for a fur rug? I can see the conversation now, ‘We would miss Beethoven so much around the house, we decided to have him skinned and made into a rug. We will always have him lying in front of the fireplace like he used to at night.’ Then I would add this to their words, ‘Yeah, still shedding hair and causing dander. Yep. He is still there, except for that fact he is NOT!’

As we crossed over the aisle and went to the next few stores, I passed a whole bunch of purses that looked like frogs. They were tanned and leather looking with plastic beady eyes glued onto them. The mouth was a zipper for your access. After seeing Beethoven skinned I leaned in closer to see if the frogs were real too. I turned slightly to my left and was startled because the sales lady’s face was inches from mine with that eager-to-have-a-customer-at-my-booth-I-want-you-to-buy-something look and she proudly exclaimed, “Real FROGS!” and lifted one off for me to hold. HINT: as I have said before, if you are not intending to buy anything in Asia, don’t point at it and definitely DON’T hold it. If you pick it up, there is a chance you will be walking away with it! Instead of being impressed like she had hoped, I was rather disgusted. Who wants to put their money in a dead frog? Then reach into its throat to retrieve it? NOT ME! So I smiled and said, “Tingnan lang…” (Just looking) and I walked away. As I said, sometimes I am still shocked.

One of the things about Filipino culture that I have not yet mentioned is the acceptance of Lady-boys—sometimes called Mahu in Hawaii or Drags in the States. They are all over, there seems to be quite a few of them that sell in stores or restaurants. In many ways you cannot tell they are not female from a distance. It is only when the female body says, “Hello Sir,” in a deep masculine voice that I do a startled double take. They are always funny to talk with and Hiva got a few to pose for a photo for her. Yes, getting used to the Philippines brings new experiences every day.

Hi all, this is Hiva picking up the story from here.  Bryan the intern was trying to buy purses and pearls to take home to his wife to appease her for missing their first anniversary. So he asked if I would help him pick out purses for his lady folk.  I joined him in the middle of his bartering for purses with the lady boy sales person.  I heard from the lady boy, “Sir, you’re handsome, are you married?”  Bryan blushing and showing his ring “Yeah.”  Lady boy displaying the diamond rings on his left hand ring finger, “Me too, see?”  I playfully asked the lady boy, “Where’s your husband?”   The lady boy burst into teenage girl giggles and happily continued on with the bartering process.  Bryan and the lady boy eventually agreed on a price for the purses and we merrily went on our way.  

Nag-shoshop sa Manila!

For the our second weekend here Lady Hiva and I went exploring several markets around the greater Manila area. Having seen several malls last week similar to malls in the United States, we wanted to see what the markets were like.

We started the day shopping at Cartimar Market that is not far from our house. We had fun exploring shop after shop. We saw them selling everything from freshly chopped meat to shoes and hand tailored clothing--when I say fresh, I mean that you get the pleasure of watching them skin the meat and hack away at it right as you order. Not the most beautiful site, although I would have been alright if not for the overpowering smell of dried blood and old discarded meat parts. My mind just screamed 'fresh air, fresh air!' Luckily the next store in was a shoe store with several large fans to calm the olfactory system. It was mesmerizing to watch several seamstresses use old black humming machines to agilely piece together clothing that someone had requested. Down at the other end of the market was the pet shop, or shops I should say. There were all kinds of fish to put in your tank from sharks to koi and small betas. Or if you wanted a cat, dog, rabbit or rat and mouse multiple colors, shapes and sizes were available. If a bird suits your interest then pigeons, parrots, little colorful chirping birds, chickens, roosters and cockatiels can be found. Darkly I hoped that these animals did not eventually migrate to the other side of the market and leave in a bag instead of a pet...ok, next market, I was suddenly done looking at Cartimar.

We then drove to Makati--one of the really nice areas of Manila--and walked around the farmers market they have there every Saturday. The smells of food are abundant and enticing. Sadly, my allergy to shellfish kept me from trying most of it, but it was still fun to look at the creativity of each dish. The flowers for sale were beautiful and the fruit delicious. As we tried to decide what to buy, the seller would give a slice of melon, or a small sample of whatever was on their table. We ended up having too many bags of fruit and vegatables so we went home to unload and went to Greenhills.

Greenhills is out in Quezon city, about an hour drive from our house. Quezon is where the temple is and it was neat to look out over the houses and see white steeple sporting Moroni over everything else. Moroni is actually quite famous here in Manila, twice I have had people who find out we are LDS refer to Moroni by name as the 'guy on the temple,' and the taxi cab driver understood exactly what building I was referring to when I asked if he knew where there LDS temple is. He answered, "Yes, yes a beautiful white building with a steeple and golden warrior!" (all in Tagalog of course). SO warrior, protector, or trumpet player, whatever Moroni is known by he is definitely a symbol that is recognized.

Greenhills is a large warehouse type building that is sectioned off into hundreds of small cubicles all selling something. Clothes, bags, decorations, furniture, pearls--you name it, someone at Greenhills is selling. There are many phases of emotion as a Greenhills shopper: At first the busy-ness was a novelty to the senses, then bartering becomes an addicting game to see if you can get a better price from them or the next store down that is bound to sell the same merchandise. I must say the Filipinos give in A LOT easier than the sellers in Hong Kong. In Hong Kong they would lower the price, but not until you were actually walking out of the store and they would chase you down or hold onto you until you bought. Here I would merely look like I was going to set the item down or turn slightly to the door and they would lower the price! Even if I was going to buy it anyway. Lady Hiva bought a new hand bag that was originally priced PHP2000 (USD $46) for PHP800 (USD $18) because every time she looked at me for approval that it looked good with her skin tone or hair color, the saleslady mistook the non-verbal gesture as Hiva asking for approval to spend the money and would lower the price!

Hiva found some great snacks of course, her favorite being fried dough into a cylinder and filled with chocolate ice cream. We ate dinner at California Pizza Kitchen--yes, I know, that is not very exotic, but after a day of chaotic shopping, it was nice to sit in a quiet place with a clean bathroom for a few minutes while we regrouped.

We finished the night off at Mall of Asia, close to our house. Every Friday and Saturday they have fireworks over Manila bay. We got there early and watched everyone coming and going on the boardwalk until the firework show started. When it did, we suddenly found that they were being let off directly OVER OUR HEADS! It is a bit shocking at first, the noise is so loud it pops your eardrums and the small burning cinders look like they will land on your head before they cool! It is something that I guess you take for granted in the States with safety restrictions that makes you stand so far away from the explosions--it added a whole new dimension of adrenaline to the show though!

The thing that impressed me the most about the malls here in Manila is that they have chapels in all of them. Yes, I said chapels. At first I mistakenly thought there was a store called "Chapel" because all the mall directories listed it. But mall after mall this week I was shocked to realize it is a real chapel with Mass! Incredibly convenient I guess to have Mass in the mall and you can get your shopping done after...