Nepal Post #1: Burning Bodies in Kathmandu

 

When we found out that we were moving to India, the two Muggles were excited about two specific things: Eating Indian Food (which we have always loved as a family) and going to see Mount Everest. (Thank you, Disney's Animal Kingdom for making Everest even be on their radar). So we decided to take a trip to Nepal before the Muggles were back in school and for Lucky Dragon's birthday. We did plenty of planning and found ourselves a Sherpa tour company, Himalayan Friends Trekking. There were a few items that we needed to purchase for our trek, but by the time came we were ready for the trip! It was a trip to remember for many, many reasons. I am going to cover it over  a few blogs the next few days so I can make sure that we record all that we experienced. 

The first day we flew from Mumbai to Kathmandu. Our children have learned that on flying days we wake up early. They are such good travelers. In the Mumbai airport we purchased a workbook for Koala Bear and the first Harry Potter book for Lucky Dragon. These became VERY important purchases as you see in later posts. By the time we had arrived in New Delhi for our layover, Lucky Dragon had nearly finished the first book and was ready to read the second, so we bought it too! 

Kathmandu was an interesting place. We loved that it has so much history and was a calmer pace than Mumbai. We took time to see all that the city had to offer. This includes the many temples throughout the city! 

The next morning we were up again early. We were planning on making a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. Lukla is where many Everest treks begin. It is also famously "the most dangerous airport in the world." There is a really short runway that is on the edge of a cliff. Because it is tucked into the mountains, there is no radar so pilots have to use their eyes to navigate. They also have to hit the short runway at the exactly correct angle and speed to not crash at the other end! But due to heavy rain, our flight was delayed and ultimately cancelled. We were creative in entertaining ourselves. We found a deck of cards in Lady Hiva's bag (again, more about those cards later in our story). I used an empty water bottle to play drums on the Muggles' hands. It entertained the entire airport, much to Lady Hiva's embarrassment. But we had fun! So we kept doing it! We also took naps on the hard cold floor as we waited. 

We decided to go explore the city while we waited and we were so glad that we did. We visited the major temples in Kathmandu. One that was Hindu and one that is Buddhist. 

The first stop was Aarya Ghat and the Pashupatinath temple for the Hindus. It is built along the river that is a tributary to the Ganges. These rivers are sacred and believed to be connected to the gods; thus being a place of life, death, and rebirth. 

The Buddhist temple was Swayambhunath. It is one of the most ancient pilgrimage sites for Tibetan Buddhists. We were able to eat a delicious lunch on a rooftop adjacent to the temple. What  spectacular view. 

We were introduced to the idea of the Buddhist prayer bells and that, too, became a steady part of our trip in Nepal. On each bell there is a script that honors god and helps us know how to be better people When you pass them, you turn each one as a form of prayer. They differ in size and you always spin them clock-wise. It was really neat to do that. The temple had them all along the perimeter, so the Muggles and I spun then all--we can use all the help we can get! 

Below is one of the oldest monestaries in the world. 

We learned quite a bit about the traditional flags. They too, have prayers/scripture written on them. They always come in 5 colors to represent the elements: Red--Fire, Blue--Sky, White--air/wind, Green--Water, Yellow--earth. They are always hung in high places to signify balance, luck and bless the surrounding areas as they flutter. 

The Hindu temple area is just as ancient and steeped in religious relics. Thousands come here for pilgrimage and to burn their dead. 

In these pots, they burn use fire and smoke to realize the blessings they have recieved in life, or want to receive. 

A large statue honoring a bull--the mode of transportation and gatekeeper for the Hindu God Shiva. It is a very sacred space and a we could not go all the way in. 

Along the river, families clean the bodies of their dead to purify them. Then the burn the bodies with straw and sandlewood. The ashes are then thrown into the river to prepare for rebirth. We sat and watched as several bodies burned. And the rituals for the families and they started the burning of their deceased family. It was really ceremonial and very specific. 

Shrines to the God Shiva, who represents as both Male and Female. 

Washing the body before it can be burned. 

We went to a dinner and cultural show the first night. It as in one of the historical buildings in Kathmandu. They gave us a "bindi" (red dot) as we entered as a traditional way for Hindus to honor God and always remember him. They had several traditional dances that they did and it ended with  a peacock dance and then the peacock came out and pecked everyone in the head until they tipped it. (cue the eye-roll). 

When we arrived at the restaurant, there was a film crew filming on the popular TV series in Nepal. We had a chance to sit and watch them work. 

Ringing the bells in the temple alerts teh deity that we are there and dispels evil while welcoming divinity. 

Our welcome at the airport. They are khatas and are given in white to symbolize the compassion and pure heart of the giver wishing the receiver good luck and peace. 

In the next several posts you will journey with us to the base of Everest! It was a beautiful and grueling climb--both physically and mentally.